Plant in rich ,moist but well drained, neutral to acid soil, sun to part shade. Sun enhances redness in red leaf varieties. Some variegated varieties need protection from hot sun.

Planting container grown Trees-Dig the planting hole 12"to 24" wider than the root ball. Carefully lift the tree out of the pot ( with smaller trees gently slide the tree sideways out of the pot). Handle the tree by the root ball, if some roots encircle the root ball they should be carefully teased out or cut with a sharp knife to encourage sideways root growth. Ensure that the root ball is completely moist before planting, soak if necessary. Plant at the same level as in the container, or slightly elevated, depending on soil drainage. Add Bonemeal to the hole, backfill and tamp the soil lightly to eliminate any air pockets, water in well with the hose. In spring or early summer add slow release fertilizer i.e.. Acer, Osmocote or Nutricote to the surface. Do not add compost or manure at this time ( use as a top dressing for established trees).

Field grown Trees (Ball & Burlap)- Prepare the hole and plant as above, in the Fall untie the burlap, cut away the string and fold or cut the burlap away from the trunk. Fertilize as above.

Maintenance Provide an even amount of moisture, avoid periods of drought, prune off dead wood in the spring and fall or when noticed in the Summer. Fertilize in spring with slow release fertilizer. Preventative spraying with a fungicide is recommended in the late fall/early winter.

 Leaf  scorch  can be caused by wind, salt spray, hot sun, periods of drought, alkaline soil, salt build up & over heated roots (container plants).

Fungus Blight can be air borne or soil borne and is mainly a problem after a mild moist winter. Characterized by black streaks on a branch in winter ( when in leaf, wilt and die back can and will occur),  usually on unsprayed trees. Check for black streaks or branches, prune well below  blackness, treat the cut with lime sulphur, burn the cuttings and disinfect the cutters. If a black streak is detected on the main stem of the tree or a large branch paint the affected part with a 50% lime sulphur solution, this will burn out the fungus and will not hurt the tree, in time the wound will heal over. Keep in mind that time is of the essence when a problem is noticed, taking no action to correct the problem may result in the demise of part or all of the tree.

 If an established or a recently planted Japanese Maple has died from the bottom up a fungal blight may be present in the soil, another Japanese Maple should not be planted in the same spot unless a large amount of soil is replaced or the soil is treated.