Plant in rich
,moist but well drained, neutral to acid
soil, sun to part shade. Sun enhances
redness in red leaf varieties. Some
variegated varieties need protection
from hot sun.
container grown Trees-Dig
the planting hole 12"to 24"
wider than the root ball. Carefully lift
the tree out of the pot ( with smaller trees
gently slide the tree sideways out of
the pot). Handle the tree by the root
ball, if some roots encircle the root
ball they should be carefully teased out
or cut with a sharp knife to encourage
sideways root growth. Ensure
that the root
ball is completely moist before planting,
soak if necessary. Plant at the same
level as in the container, or slightly
elevated, depending on soil drainage.
Add Bonemeal to the hole, backfill and
tamp the soil lightly to eliminate any
air pockets, water in well with the
hose. In spring or early summer add slow
release fertilizer i.e.. Acer, Osmocote or Nutricote to the surface. Do not add
compost or manure at this time ( use as
a top dressing for established trees).
grown Trees (Ball
& Burlap)- Prepare the hole and
plant as above, in the Fall untie the burlap,
cut away the string and fold or cut the
from the trunk. Fertilize as above.
Provide an even amount of moisture,
avoid periods of drought, prune off dead
wood in the spring and fall or when noticed in the Summer. Fertilize in spring
with slow release fertilizer. Preventative spraying with a fungicide is
recommended in the late fall/early winter.
scorch can be
caused by wind, salt spray, hot sun,
periods of drought, alkaline soil, salt
build up & over heated roots
can be air borne or soil borne and is mainly a problem after a mild
moist winter. Characterized by black streaks on a branch in winter (
when in leaf, wilt and die back can and will occur), usually on unsprayed
trees. Check for black streaks or branches, prune well below
blackness, treat the cut with lime sulphur, burn the cuttings and
disinfect the cutters. If a black streak is detected on the main stem of
the tree or a large branch paint the affected part with a 50% lime
sulphur solution, this will burn out the fungus and will not hurt the
tree, in time the wound will heal over. Keep in mind that time is
of the essence when a problem is noticed, taking no action to
correct the problem may result in the demise of part or all of the tree.
If an established or a recently planted
Japanese Maple has died from the bottom up a fungal blight may be
present in the soil, another Japanese Maple should not be planted in the
same spot unless a large amount of soil is replaced or the soil is